Can't get enough of the volcanoes

What did we do when we went to Puerto Varas? Easy, we went to the Oktoberfest, we admired the lakes and we hiked around Volcan Osorno. Another place I could live, very scenic, a bit German...

The lake

The volcano

The beach

It's all about Pucon

Pucon wasn't originally on our itinerary but everywhere we stayed people were talking about how good it is. We arrived to find great weather, no ash, a very pretty town on a lake with views to snow capped mountains. There is a lot to do in Pucon, its an 'adventure capital' but we came here with the idea of climbing Volcan Villarrica, a snow covered, active, 2847m volcano. Despite the pep talk from the agency about potential bad weather, treacherous ice and toxic sulphur gases, its one of the best things we've done in SA so this is going to be a longer blog than usual, not sorry.

Smoking Volcan Villarrica from the lakeside

To be fair the walk up was hard but the views were amazing and looking over the crater through the rumbling gas was special.

Little bit afraid - 6hrs up, snow and ice all the way, active volcano, all smiles

Only half way

Break time - perfect weather for good views (Pucon on right)

View from the top to the west - Argentina

The crater and the stink gas

People for scale

Going up was pretty cool but coming down was incredible. No knee breaking walk, we slid down, on our bums. Over the steepest parts you can really pick up some speed - the record is 47kmph.

Me with the bum slide equipment

Starting the slide

Whoever came up with this is brilliant, its the best ride ever

So we will now add ourselves to the long line of people bragging about Pucon. We were super lucky with the weather and the group but I would still tell everyone to come here and try this. And for afterwards there's hot springs and beer. 

Can't escape the ash

We toured the route of the seven lakes a couple of days ago - it was very scenic but the ash is persistent and has followed us all the way to San Martin de los Andes. Amazing and annoying at the same time.

One of the seven lakes, plus ash

One of the innocent volcanoes

A holiday home here would be nice

Bariloche is a beautiful place to ride bikes around lakes and hike in the mountains. If you can handle lots of sun, lots of wind and lots of volcanic ash, its the place for you. Just a pity its too chilly for swimming because the water is crystal clear.

Lots of bike riding

Excellent picnic spots

Lakes and more lakes

Ash, even on the water

and mountains

Wineries and volcanic ash

Spent a day riding bikes around some wineries, south of Mendoza. Lots of wine, lots of fun. Sadly a gloomy volcanic ash cloud hung around all day, so no views of the Andes but being out in the vineyards and imagining the surrounding snow capped mountains was bliss.

The day ended with absinthe and chocolate and headaches...

Disaster trip

What should have been a simple 6 hour trip across the Andes turned into a 16 hour nightmare...we were heading to Mendoza and I couldn't help but think 'the universe does not want us to go here'. First the road was closed for 2 hours due to snow and then we sat at the border for another 8 hours while they processed the backlog, SLOWLY, with intermittent power outages. Luckily there were some food stalls up there so we could get some dinner, unluckily a caterpillar crawled out of my Bife de Lomo and along my finger, which lead to the discovery of lots of other, less fortunate caterpillars and no dinner for Karen.

Buses, cars, trucks for miles

The lovely, snowy Andes

Happy ending - we arrived in Mendoza at midnight, we checked into our hostel and we had a sleep in. Feel grateful to have made it.

View from our room at relaxing Hostel Lao

Arty, crafty Valparaiso

We woke up on the bus to some lovely Chilean coastal scenery. At first I was reminded of Margaret River - rolling hills covered in wild flowers, breaking surf and rocky beaches - but as we got closer to Valparaiso, it became greener and there were more farms and towns. Valparaiso was lovely - I've never been to San Francisco but I imagine V is a poorer version. The hills, the wooden houses, the cafes and the unique shops and galleries remind me of Paddington (QLD). We had a nice break here, wandering around finding local restaurants and good coffee and just enjoying sea air, nice weather and great views.

Street art everywhere

Ugly port but still nice to sit and watch the boats come and go

Cute houses

A flat white - excitement

My new favourite - pastel de choclo and Trolley beer at Pimenton

El Ladron - Take 2

Jumped on a bus to Valparaiso and nearly got robbed again. This time we caught the nicely dressed, neat, young robber in the act and he got lots of swear words from me. Not sure I've ever abused someone in public and it took a while for the blood pressure to return to normal...I'm only sorry I can't speak fluent Spanish, but I think he got the gist.

I eat dirt, literally

If I was a movie director in charge of shooting a western, I would go straight to San Pedro de Atacama. Instinctively you'd think I wouldn't like a tiny town in the desert with dust devils and dirty dogs in every street but I really did. The town and everything in it is covered in dust but its full of character, it has great cafes and restaurants and its surrounded by Moon Valley, hot springs, geysers and of course, always in the background, the Andes. Had a fun 3 days here.

Just add tumbling Spinifex

Geysers

Surreal Moon Valley

Get excited

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Bolivia - a surprise

Who knew Bolivia was beautiful? Poor, yes....cheap, yes....but also remote and untouched and stunning....no. We have just done a very fast 3 day circuit of the south west and I was really impressed. Snow capped volcanoes leaking steam, brilliant white salt planes with cactus islands, red and green and blue lagoons full of pink flamingoes, geysers, hot springs - and comparatively very few tourists. That said the nights are so cold they're painful and the days are so hot and dry and windy I'm sure any moment now my face will crack off.

Selfishly I hope this area never develops because its one of the few places we've been where its all about the nature - there aren't many comforts and the scenery is vast. Sadly, I think the truth is one day the west will catch on and its money will bring roads and airports and shops and hotels and south west Bolivia wont be the same.

Salar de Uyuni

Salt in every direction

Volcanoes, lakes, flamingoes

Easy scared Vicunas - excellent scarf material

Ice in the desert - just weird

Hot springs - you can actually swim in these

Laguna Verde - the most beautiful, most windy, most toxic lake of them all

Transport in Bolivia

Not a fan. It’s slow, late, disorganised and dirty. My dislike for Bolivian public transport started with the boat to Isla del Sol (overloaded, slow, hot, 2 hours of diesel air) and culminated last night on the overnight bus to from La Paz to Sucre. 12 hours, no toilet, toilet stops at the discretion of the bus driver, who smoked. What I’ve learnt is that Bolivian bus driver’s lie and you can get over being a prude really quickly when, seconds away from wetting yourself, you are given the opportunity to take relief beside the bus on the edge of the highway.

Where are we?

From the gumtrees you might think Australia;

 from the coastline you might think Greece;

View from above Yumani

but actually, this surprising paradise is Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca.

View from the northern end of the island

We did a day walk around the island and it was spectacular. Partly because we had fantastic weather and partly because at 3800masl the air is so clear and the sun is so strong and the oxygen is so low, everything looks amazing.

Aaron relaxing on our balcony